Mulege' (Mule-e-hay) stop 5

February 4 and it is another moving day. We were traveling with John & Judy, Norm & Lois and W.D. & Martha. It was an interesting day of 200 miles. We stopped at where had been suggested for breakfast even though most had already eaten. W.D., Martha and John didn’t go in. We had parked next to someone selling tangerines and oranges which of course we had to buy. W.D. and Martha gave up and went on. We had more curvy and hilly sections of road. Santa Rosalina was our next stop that had been suggested. We parked by the road near 3 other Airstreams and were immediately told we needed to pay to park. The young man was quite an entrepreneur. He insisted he would take us to the mission. We began walking up the hill and realized the mission we were in was not the one built by Eiffel who built the Eiffel tower. As we began walking again he showed up in his car with a taxi behind to take us all to the mission. After haggling over the price we got in and seen saw the mission. We went in and then decided we would walk back. We wanted to see what else was there. We wandered around d and finally found a place that sold telephone cards. Mine was 50 pesos and should be about 20 minutes worth. Judy was able to call her Mother so she felt much better. We bought bakery items at the ‘French’ bakery so wandered around eating and looking. We realized we had better hurry or we were going to be late this time to park. We walked back about a mile to the campers – they were still there. John had to get gas so we slowly ambled through town with the Sea of Cortez on our left. We had curvy roads and hilly roads ahead. We were not going real slow when we rounded a corner and there was a policeman telling us to stop. It turns out a trucker had missed the corner and had burned up. This happened between the time our parkers came by and we arrived. Luckily we were all safe but the driver and another were not so fortunate. We thought we still had 15 miles to go and it was the time we were to be there. As we rounded a curve coming down a hill there was a red flag and someone in the CB saying “change of plans, turn here.” It was straight down to the beach. Dick was waiting to park us and suggested we pull straight in so we could look at the water. What a beautiful sight! The other campground had been closed; the parking crew discovered when they got there – the trials and tribulations of being a leader. Dick and Judy say there is no way they would lead a caravan! At Santispak we parked next to Norm and Lois. Soon we were bombarded by vendors. Some came selling shrimp and they looked great – 120 pesos for a kilo. We bought and ended up cooking them on the grill with Norm and Lois. We ate together and then played joker. Those shrimp were delicious.

February 5 and it is a day for ourselves. The vendors soon arrived and we bought frozen scallops and a metal and wood chicken after a bunch of bargaining. Just like many others we decided it would be an excellent day for laundry. We were told there was one of the best laundries through Baja California Sur in Mulege. We slowly got our act together and drove about 10 miles back to town. We found the roads to be as narrow as any we had seen. They had warned us not to attempt to take our motor homes or trailers into town. We never would have gotten out, that’s for sure! After parking we were quickly told by others to move since W.D. had gotten a ticket and had to pay 110 pesos in the same place. We washed – bought tokens with pesos for the washers but the dryers used US quarters. Dick and Judy waited for us and we wandered the town looking at items including beach shoes. We were looking for a phone and finally found one that worked. I was able to make one call. We found a nice little hotel with an outdoor area to eat in. Three of us chose the cheeseburger and curly fries that were straight. It was a huge burger. As usual we had filled up on chips and salsa. After wandering around some more, Winston saw a stained glass of a Mexican leaning against a cactus. After a great deal of bargaining we are now the proud owners. We headed back for our Jeep and the campground. We had a caravan cookout that consisted of way too much, particularly since we had just eaten. We had chips and salsa and cheese, barbeque beef and tortillas, potato salad, beans, dill pickles, jalapeños and cookies for dessert. While we were eating on the beach a Mariachi band came and serenaded us for 3 hours. We sat and watched as the sun set with beautiful pinks over the water and the islands out from where we are situated.

February 6 was a day to tour Mulege. The vendor who had tee shirts came back with one I had wanted. He also had beautiful tablecloths but we refrained, couldn’t get him low enough. We were picked up by 4 vans, most carrying 14 people. We soon learned we would have to open windows for a breeze. The weather is pretty good – warm during the day and cool at night. Sometimes the wind picks up pretty good. We first went to the mission and Salvador told us the history. We walked to the top of the hill and saw the oven where they had baked the stones that had been used to build the mission over 300 years ago. The view of the town was nice with palm trees used to make the thatch roofs on many of the buildings and a lighter colored palm tree that produce dates. We drove to another building that was a prison. It has been made into a museum but we couldn’t go in since the hurricane in 2006 had removed the roof and it has yet to be fixed. They are waiting on the government. Nothing moves fast in this country! We drove over very bumpy and narrow roads beside a river that runs through much of the town. This river had risen so quickly in the hurricane that people were killed. Next we drove to the lighthouse. A number climbed to the top of the hill it was on, while the rest wandered around and ended up picking up shells. Winston found where the pelicans were resting and waiting to have their babies we were told. Next we drove back into town to a hotel where we were served a fabulous lunch – much too much to eat – guacamole, refried beans, tortilla chips and salsa, enchiladas, 2 flatuas, chile relanos followed by flan for dessert. We were entertained by a musician singing and playing a piano like instrument. After that we were ready to head back for a siesta. We both seem to have acquired a cold so we needed that rest.

February 7 was a free day. Twenty-eight of us had chosen to go on an adventure to see cave paintings at La Trinidad. The only trouble was, we didn’t know what an adventure it was going to be. Two 14 passenger vans picked us up with Salvador driving one and his non-English speaking wife the other. We first had to go to the polizia to be checked in since we were going on government lands. They only permit so many to go. Salvador said about 600 people visit each year. At the politic station there was one jail cell. It made us certain we were going to be have to behave. We were told the one prisoner only receives food if someone (family or friends) bring it. He stood up high on the bars talking to us, asking for food or a cigarette. I saw his bed in one corner; it consisted of two 2inch mattresses on the floor. There was no protection except a wall had been built on the outside to give some protection from the sun? We signed our names and climbed back into the vans. Off we went through the narrow twisted roads of town to the outskirts and what must be a secondary road that led to La Trinidad. We saw four signs the entire time we drove. I have no idea how far we went but it seemed like forever. The guide book says it is 18 miles. The roads were dusty and BUMPY. There were rocks as large as softballs in and beside the road. We went into ‘river beds’ and up at angles that scraped the back bumper. We stopped and Salvador talked about the different cactus and shrubs (what they called trees) and their medicinal uses. Some were used for cancer, upset stomachs and infections. It was time to climb back in the van and travel over bumpier roads. At one point it was so bad that Salvadore went through and stopped, got out and went and drove his wife’s van through the downgrade. We reached a gate and were told that was why we had paid 100 pesos was to pay the doctor who owned an unbelievable number of acres that we had to cross. We came to another gate so I assume we were in someone else’s land. We saw no humans, one jack rabbit with big ears, a couple of birds and one chipmunk. It was pretty desolate. Suddenly we saw crops and a farm stead. The crops were alfalfa and sorghum. We parked and began the real adventure. We hiked up and down over very rocky terrain. Salvador had told it was a 20 minute walk but I know it took us all longer. Jack, our oldest member, was talked into going and he made it with help. We had to climb over rocks and then put our wading shoes on to go through a number of water holes. We were in a canyon that was unbelievably beautiful. We climbed up and there were the cave drawings. They were in white, red and black and Salvador explained them. There was a deer that was hanging that meant he had been made to jump off the cliff. Another deer had arrows pointed at his stomach indicating that the animals were pushed toward other Indians who shot them. There were Indians, a coyote, children’s hands to show the continuation of the tribe. Evidently the 3 colors were 3 different groups of Indians showing they had been there. We 'oh-ed and ah-ed' and then began our slow walk and wade back. When we arrived the two women had fixed lunch of flour tortillas, refried beans, tomatoes, onions, cheese, and jalapeños with coke, sprite or strawberry soda. It was so good. Our return trip was over the same bumpy roads but we made it. After a quick rest we had our driver’s meeting out under the palapa (frond covered shade). There was time for a quick supper and joker with Norm & Lois.