Tuesday, 24 February 2009

Monday, 23 February 2009

whale watching on a sunset cruise

Ciudad Constitucion stop 10

February 22 was a travel day. Cheryl & Firman, Norman & Lois, Jack and we were going to travel together. We waited for the driver’s meeting and were told no one was to tell about their being stopped by the policia in La Paz. We had so many, some two times. Their stories were interesting and someone from the newspaper was coming to transcribe their comments. Many were followed a ways while the police tried to find something to get them for. They were stopped for speeding, no seat belt and for going through stop (alto) signs. Many felt like they had left nothing except money (bribes) in La Paz. Firman and Cheryl had one of their license plates taken. Cheryl was worrying about not having anything to write for the journal. Quickly that was changed. One person started having trouble leaving and getting through the sand. A number of the men pushed them out. Then Norm started and immediately went down. He has a 39.5 foot motor home. It is heavy and he had mistakenly let his grey water out under his motor home while he was parked. He was definitely stuck, so quickly everyone came running. Firman had sand boards that were neat. They could not get them under the coach until they put the stabilizers down on each side, one side at a time. Different ones were down on their hands and knees digging. The boards saved him and finally with cheers he came out and didn’t stop! Off we went, knowing that we would be late getting into the next campground. We stopped only for gas but got behind a slow, slow moving truck. Trying for 4 of us to get around him was interesting. After he had about 10 cars behind him he slowed down on a curve to let us all pass. The temperature reached 97 according to the thermometer in Cheryl & Firman’s truck. We quickly parked since it was a familiar campground. It was nice to be back in Ciudad Constitucion. While a number of the women played joker, the husbands went next door to watch a cock fight. The rooster has a sharp sterling silver spur attached to his foot. It was very different from anything they had seen or done before. Patty, the campground owner, who lived a year in Pittsfield MA, and her helpers fixed a nice beef stew and chicken supper for us. They also served the most delicious drink that certainly doesn’t sound good – lime juice, cucumber juice and a little sugar. It was so refreshing. We were so tired from the heat that bedtime soon followed.

February 23 and we have another free day to explore the area. Instead after another nice breakfast in the campground of bacon and cheese omelets, potatoes, toast and juice. We finally got moving and knew we would need more pesos to get out of Mexico. Patty wrote a note to her bank and away we went. What an experience it was! We did not have our passports so after much discussion we were “charaded” that our license would not do. Back to the campground we went. With passports in hand we waited again for a different lady. She seemed ready for us until she saw Winston had signed the traveler’s check with the first lady. The first lady had a problem with mine since my driver’s license has an “E” as a middle initial and the traveler’s check did not have one. Luckily my signature on the passport was without. Whew! She did not like Winston’s signature since it didn’t look exactly the same as it did when he obtained his passport. He signed again on the back. Then we were sent to another line to wait 30 minutes to see a teller who gave us our pesos at a better rate than the board said – 14.75. Back to the campground we headed for lunch. After a game of joker we finally decided to go to the bakery. Jerome & Vickie went with us and we bought separate pieces of cake for all 4 of the birthday people. Of course, we couldn’t stop there. We ended up with a whole flan for 10 for dessert for the group eating together and 2 breakfast elephant ears and an extra cake – just in case, you understand! The whole amount was 166 pesos or a little over $10 American. It was time to go back and fix our supper for tonight.

La Paz stop 9

February 17 Since we were late the evening before, we had our driver’s meeting before the parkers left. We were deparkers with Firman and Cheryl. It seemed like everyone got out quickly and we only had duty about ½ hour. We check each trailer or motor home as it leaves to be sure steps are in, antenna is down, hitch and lights are good and spouse is on board. Firman & Cheryl led and we followed. The roads were probably the best we have had on the trip, even some four lane and new construction. In Todos Santos we turned wrong but we saw a Pemex gas station so we went to it. That proved to be interesting before we got out since we were headed the wrong way. We made it and turned around to use the truck route since the gas station man had told us not to go through town; the police would not like it. Of course, we had seen Airstreams everywhere we looked. We didn’t stay long since we knew we were to come back for a day. Our travels had been along the coast but we soon turned inland to cut across the state. There was lots of cactus and sand and dirt, as usual. We stopped at a propane station for Firman to fill up. We were on the outskirts of La Paz, the capitol of Baja California Sur. After carefully following the directions we saw Lois waving the red flag and calling out that we were one mile away from the campground. It was about 2 minutes into the parking time. The campground had just been fixed so we could use it and we were told it would be dry camping again although we did discover we had water. It was a delightful place, except for dust (of course). Our dinner was in La Paz at La Boheme French Restaurant. It was a nice area out in the open in the back. Winston had requested the beef and I, the shrimp. What I didn’t know was that the shrimp was actually more of a chowder consisting of shrimp, fish, octopus and mushrooms and who knows what else. It actually tasted pretty good but was rich and those with stomach problems really didn’t need that. By the time the meal was over it was dark and here we were somewhere in the center of La Paz with only a general idea of how to get home. We told Dick we were following him since we were driving with Norm & Lois. Now that was some trip. We saw lots of the inner city of La Paz. We certainly were happy when we saw WalMart and had an idea where we were – about 3 miles from our motor home. We had gone through I have no idea how many topes and altos, many 4-way. We where mighty glad to see the shining trailers even though there was no entrance light to where we were camped on the other side of a busy four lane highway (Mex 1). La Paz is the capitol and supposed to be one of the safest cities in Mexico. The leaders told us we should not be afraid to walk in town along the 5 mile Malecon (walkway along the water).

February 18 and we were awakened (some of us) by the beep, beep of a car horn. The man with the pastries was here. They were so good and still warm – long johns, plain or chocolate covered and apple turnovers. He also had bread and juices. I was going to purchase a good looking purple juice until I found out it was beet, carrot, celery and mango juice. I’m not that healthy! What a nice way to start a day. Before long a huge bus was waiting outside the campground gate. We were touring the town, guided by a local young lady who really seemed to enjoy her job. First we visited the Church and learned that the pictures on the wall have English titles. This is because the Queen of England had visited here and made them possible. Next we went to a pottery shop that had been in existence for many years. We purchased two plates, their design is so Mexican. Next we went to a weavers who also had been in business for many years. Both businesses were family run and owned. It was interesting to watch the weavers and the potters design their wares. We did purchase a tablecloth there. We were delivered back to the campground and it wasn’t long before Norm & Lois, Winston & I and Dick & Judy and John & Judy were out touring. We went out to see the beaches, or playas. Some of the areas were pretty and some were starting to grow with American homes. We went to see the Mushroom rock that we had been told about. It was neat, we had to walk a distance in the sand to find it. Surprise - there were vendors there – ones that were serious who didn’t let you walk away. I did end up with a silver necklace. We drove to another area and looked for shells but the thrashing and turning of the waves breaks them up into small pieces. There were lots of rocks nearly the size of a baseball. We wandered our way back through town and re-found the campground after a stop at WalMart. Sure is fun trying to find things when the signs are in Spanish. We have yet to find lemon juice. I hate to guess how many clerks have tried to help us. Enid says she buys real limes and squeezes them. She also said she felt that was one thing that helped keep away the stomach upsets.

February 19 - Another day in La Paz, and more exploring to be done, but first we hear the beep, beep of the bakery man. Will we have rolls, every morning? We were going to go to a museum even though we had been told it was all in Spanish captions. We never made it. Instead we headed to town, to the Mercado or the city market. Now that was interesting. At one vendor I wanted to buy a little topper for a cake for someone who is celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. First I walked into the area and evidently I wasn’t supposed to do that. I opened the glass case and the lady seemed a little upset. I was trying to tell her about the 50th so all I could think of was Sinco. She thought I was telling her I would pay 5 pesos instead of the 10 that was written on the item. She quickly took the item and closed the case door. Again we went through the same process. Finally I gave up and handed her 10 pesos. There was a communication gap for sure. When we passed one vendor he wanted to know if we wanted to have our picture made with a just killed pig. We thought not! The fish (pesorara) smell was evident. Then we wandered the streets looking at the different stores. We saw three or four party stores. I have never seen so many types of candy and piñatas. Next we wandered back toward the car when we realized we were hungry and remembered that Applebees was close. Lois had had some stomach problems so we thought might be a good place. There were 2 menus – one in English, one in Spanish. The funny part was looking at the prices on the English menu that had $ pesos. Can you believe a hamburger cost $132? After lunch we walked the malecon – a beautiful sidewalk beside the water. Many were busy setting up for the carnival. We were amazed because it evidently took them 3 or 4 days to set up the rides and booths. It was a good time to head back.

February 20 and again we hear the beep, beep of the baker. What a wonderful way it is to start off the morning. This is the day that those who want to are carpooling to Todas Santos. It is an older community and we find we really enjoy just wandering the street. The mission is beautiful and there are lots of small shops, although we soon discover they don’t bargain much. There are some well known artists who have come to live here. We saw some of the work and much of it is a little abstract for me. Dick & Judy and we found a small internet café that served sandwiches on baquettes – ham and cheese but with avocado and tomato. It was very good. Then we found the museum and in the back were reproductions of the kitchen and home from at least 200 years ago. It was made from sticks woven together and palms for the roof. With the lack of rain, they last a long time. Inside the small buildings were the items that were used for living. It gave us a feel of what it was like to live back then. We purchased a few items and came home happy. We had a cookout with some of the others followed by a game of joker.

February 21 was our last day in La Paz. There was no beep, beep this morning. We decided that the baker must be able to make money at the carnival in town. We performed a number of housekeeping chores to get ready to move and get our clothes clean. I used the owner’s washer and dryer that were located at the back of her home. The washer was in an alcove where they had been raising four puppies and the dryer was outside in the elements. In the early afternoon we and Tom & Judy drove into town. We went early so we could walk the malecon. Judy had spent 24 hours in the hospital with vertigo so she had not had an opportunity to see much. She and I wandered through the carnival setup while the husbands sat on a bench talking, watching the waves and the very small float plane. Soon we saw others from the caravan and wandered back toward the Italian Restaurant where we had entertainment from one of the Universities. The young men and women were spectacular in their colorful costumes as they performed dances from various states of Mexico. I must admit it was tiring watching them because they did not stop dancing. They were spectacular. They were followed by a nice Italian dinner of shrimp or chicken fettuccini. After another last stop at WalMart we were back home. All weekend we had been serenaded and talked to by a girls and boys Apostolic Church retreat that was being held in the next part of the campground. There were probably 60 or 70 kids. They sang and sang and then there was some preaching (we think). We wish we knew what was being said. They seemed to have a wonderful time and were friendly especially when Winston walked the dogs.

Cabo San Lucas stop 8

February 14 and it is Valentine’s Day. Winston had found the neatest Spanish card. He asked if I knew what it said. After turning it over on the back was the English translation. We had breakfast for the last time back at the Resort. Then it was time to get the Jeep hooked up and head for the next campground. We traveled with Norm and Lois. They have a 39 foot motor home so I guess we look like rich Americans traveling together. We saw the monument for the Tropic of Cancer but so many AIrstreams were there we kept on going. We were headed to Cabo San Lucas, one of the major tourist areas in Baja California Sur. The roads really improved as we got close – four lane even. They have it so you go off the main highway and onto a frontage road and then before long there will be a bridge or underpass to get back on the other side. That is what we had to do to get to the campground. One of the landmarks on the way was a Glass Factory. We saw there was no way to get to it. We pulled over to the side where there was extra room and parked, both of us. We walked back and enjoyed going to the factory. There were actually glass blowing and it was fun to watch. In one of the shops that had interior design items, the owner (from Missouri) told us that the little drink shop there had the best prices in all of Cabo San Lucas for Norm to get some beer so we went there. She was correct and the owner sold us the prettiest Tequila and then gave us another. We now have our alcoholic souvenir. We followed the intricate directions and got to the campground. They had been told how many sights we needed but turns out there were only 21 sites for our 25 rigs. We and Sally used the same site. For some reason the electric did not work for us so more dry camping. After getting settled in, we found the view was nice – the water fairly close by. A young Mexican lady came by and asked if we would like our rig washed. Oh, boy, would we! Winston and she came to an agreement to do the Jeep and motor home (without the top) for 300 pesos or about 25 US dollars. It surely looked good when she finished. Later most of us walked to our dinner at Puerto Vieja Restaurant, about 2 blocks outside the campground. We had a very nice dinner but we ate early so they could serve others for their Valentine’s Day dinner. We ambled back to the campground and ended up with a good game of Joker with Dick & Judy and Tom & Penny.

February 15 is a free day. Since it is Sunday, we looked for an “English speaking Church. We were with Dick & Judy and W.D. and Martha were with John & Judy. We wandered through some of the interesting narrow back streets of Cabo San Lucas, found an American who said we were only a block away. Sure enough, there was “English Speaking Church.” They really did like to sing, about 30 minutes standing and singing followed by a good sermon. We re-found our vehicles and made for the “tourist section.” Wouldn’t you know it, after finally finding a parking place and wandering through a mall we found a Burger King. We went around the wharf checking out all of the vendors. Seemed like each was selling similar items but just a little different. Their wares were often arranged on a blanket on the sidewalk or else they walked around with jewelry in cases or necklace whistles on their arms. The vendors were all ages from about 10 up to elderly. We found our way back to the cars and found Sam’s and Costco on the way back. You know we had to stop. There was another good Joker game – I think Tom and Penny are hooked.

February 16 and another breakfast is on the schedule. We carpooled and that was an experience! We hung on Bruce’s (the leader) back bumper to get there rather than get lost. We made it through downtown and all to a narrow cobblestone road straight up to the parking lot. Sure were glad we didn’t have our motor home! The breakfast was way up on top of the hill with a beautiful view from Hotel Finisterra. The buffet was awesome, even had made to order omelets and wonderful pastries. Afterwards we walked around the hotel and heard the fee began at $400 per night. Don’t think we’ll be staying there anytime soon. We went back to the campground so Winston could feed the dogs and work on a work on a water problem we had with the filter. Then we were off again but in the other direction to San Jose de Lucas. It was a much nicer town but again very touristy. We drove past lots of really nice hotels and found the plaza which had some wonderful shops around it. We bargained a little and had a good time. We had to be back in time for the busses for our sunset cruise. Vans picked us up and first took us to a glass blowing factory. I didn’t think it was as good as the other one although it was larger. They had 5 different young men blowing and working with the glass. There was so much to buy but it was dusty, high and poor quality. We left it there. Then we went to the wharf only to discover we had some waiting and wandering time. We joined a number of others, must have had over 100 on the boat and we were stuffed in. We got a table on top but it was so tight we could barely move. We headed out off the coast and wandered around for 2 or 3 hours. We did see some blows, some seals and had gulls chase us for the food we had. They served drinks and had dancing as well as giving us a meal with chicken on a skewer. The sunset was awesome. The gulls following us were fun to watch and we were able to figure out where we were camped. The vans met us and returned us to our campground.

cock fighting

Friday, 13 February 2009

Picture of road to the back country

Children in doorway in El Trunfo

Las Barrilles stop7

February 11. It is yet another travel day. They seem to come so often. It seems like you would get used to the roads but a number of us shared later that it had not been a fun day. We had been told about a stop where they had wonderful oyster tacos. We stopped but they were out which was okay with me! Norm & Lois and John & Judy and we decided to go on to the most interesting sounding place that we had been told about. In El Triunfo there was a mission, (which we visited); a basket shop (which we visited and bought at); and a music museum (where Nicolas Cirrallo was the curator and performer). Mr. Cirrallo was quite an interesting person. I purchased one of his CD’s of concertos and symphonies. I imagine that he had performed for a number of years because he is quite well known in Mexico. We left the town and immediately, in my opinion, the road went to awful. It was downhill and very curvy – there are now handholds on the bar next to my seat. The performer had a neck problem in which his head leaned to one side – I think I know why, he had to hold on like I did and was hiding his face in his shoulder. Finally we got to the bottom and there was the town of Loreto, where we will stop on our return. Our supper was at the resort not too far from the campground in miles but it was many bumps and 10 to-pes from there. The resort was beautiful and the meal was a Mexican buffet. We ended our evening with a fun game of joker with Dick & Judy and Tom & Penny.

February 12 and we have our breakfast buffet at the resort. They had wonderful looking fruit – pineapple, watermelon, cantaloupe and mango. They would fix eggs as you wished, French toast, pancakes, bacon, hot dogs, ham and a few Mexican items including refried beans. We looked around the compound. At 10, which in Mexican time became 11, we all gathered for introduction to driving ATV’s. Nearly every one of us rode one around. We are now experts. We wandered around and then decided it was a do-nothing day. We messed with the computer, still trying to get pictures on the blog. Talk about lazy – we were! I wandered down to the beach. It was nice but gets very windy in the afternoons. That is when the kites and the windsurfers all come out. After our supper we walked down to Dick and Judy’s trailer. Eight of us sat out until it was pitch black.

February 13. This is the day we are to ride ATV’s. We had another breakfast buffet at the resort. Judy and I had discussed that it might be a good time to do laundry since we were on the afternoon ride. We had our dirty clothes with us so we found the laundry – not quite open but beautiful and new. Three of us soon filled up all of the washing machines. Husbands went to compute. The young lady attendant (who could not speak English) helped us but forgot to turn the propane on for the dryers so we had to wait an extra time for clothes to dry. My cost was 100 pesos (about $7.50 US) for 3 washer and 3 dryer loads. Not too bad! We went to a shop we had been told about where there were wood turned items. It was good work with turquoise inlaid in many of them. Most of the wood was Mango. They seemed a little high priced. After lunch we went up to do the ATV’s and wouldn’t you know it, all the double seaters were gone. As Enid told us they promise them they will be there and then it just doesn’t happen. After looking the situation over I backed out. I was to have my own – with gear shift. Dick tried to show me how and rammed into the two waiting in front of him. I could just imagine me doing that so I stayed home and got to do some much-needed cleaning. The dust is everywhere. You should see the car – it is one dust ball. Winston is back and what a grungy creature! He is heading for a shower for some reason. He said it was beautiul – they went down the beach and then over BUMPY roads to a waterfall. One of the husbands climber up to take a picture and fell about 8 feet into the water. He chipped a tooth or two, bunped his head and got scrapes. Bet he will be sore tomorrow!. Nealy time for a Drivers Meeting and then possibly got into town for a nice dinne of shimp ceviche (raw shrimp cooked in lime juice. The lime juice cooks them.)

Thursday, 12 February 2009

Tuesday, 10 February 2009

Ciudad Constitucion stop 6

February 8 and it is a travel day. We will be writing the journal for this area so we have to pay good attention. Rather than travel with a group of 5 we waited for the deparkers Norm & Lois and Al & Mary Ann. We are traveling to Ciudad Constitucion (or as our GPS called it Villa Constitucion.) The road offered spectacular scenery and lots of twists and turns, ups and downs. All of the groups were traveling so close together that we could hear each other on the CB’s. It was even more comical when we reached the military checkpoint. We backed the whole works up with at least 14 of us waiting to go through. They stopped one trailer and went through it. Jackie & Alan were the lucky ones. After our 160 mile trip we were ready to find the campground. Dick and his parking crew, as usual, did a good job of keeping us all straight. It is nice to have some electric and water again. The campground is called Manfred’s RV Trailer Park although we understand the name has been changed to Mision ****. The owner is Patty and she is most helpful. At four we slowly gathered for a social hour followed by a nice dinner of pork and fish, rice, and potatoes with Mexican accompaniments such as flour tortillas, refried beans, cactus salad, onions. Desert was Flan. We ate under a palapaya. They are so neat with the fronds so beautifully laid as a roof. After we were done we moved outside for the entertainment. Many headed to get a jacket since it became rather cool, some blankets were seen. What wonderful entertainment it was! The local university provided us more of an introduction to the dance and music of the Mexican people. The young girls and men danced for us a number of dances of different areas of the country. This was all done in native costume. A group of men and one woman sang love songs. Two of the students who are learning English did the introduction which was good for us and them.

February 9th was a free day except for breakfast in the campground. It was scheduled from 7:30 to 9 so some slept in. When we arrived we discovered cantaloupe waiting for us and a bright shining face wanting to know if we wanted coffee and an American or Mexican breakfast. I think most opted for the American. A bacon omelet with fried potatoes certainly tasted good. Then evidently it was time for many to catch up with family and friends via the computer. Norm and Lois and we decided that the adventure Bruce and Enid had talked about sounded good. – a trip to Comondu. It was a little farther than we thought or expected. We did think about Bruce talk about riding in on a donkey. Civilization as we think of was far behind. After about 40 miles on pavement and then another 30 miles over bumpy dirt, gravel, boulder and cemented road we arrived at the Oasis. There was even a creek we had to ford in the car. The first of the two towns (San Miquel Comondu) had many fragments of buildings. We had passed Tom and Penny and Jerome and Vickie. They told us about the olives and how nice the Mission was, so we passed through and drove the 3.7 kilometers to San Jose Comondu. We were thirsty and saw signs for Tecate so thought they might have soda. Sodas as well as olives were there. except the owner spoke no English. We are getting better at hand signals. We drove on to the Mission just down the street. It was an interesting building – very high with the rounded ceiling. The Mission is actually a surviving Jesuit missionary house that is currently used as a church. The walls of the original Mission were torn down for other buildings. There is a bell from 1708 hanging in front. About that time we saw Roger & Gloria and Frank & Carol. They told us of their visit and meal at Martina’s so off we went with just a memory of a picture of her place and no memory of her name. We were near her place, actually right in front, when Norm tried to ask some fellas where she was located. It was like a game of charades. Winston stood at the half open door and yelled her name. She appeared and invited us in. We pantomimed eat and later asked for a restroom. That was an experience. She began fixing a meal for us – hand made tortillas (while we watched, she was as good as any American pizza maker) cheese, meat (carne) with onions and peppers, fresh tomatoes, It was delicious and such an experience since we were able to watch her through the entire cooking process. She had a gas stove, modern refrigerator and even a microwave. We listened to Mexican music on a boom box. The electric looked a little primitive but it worked. She had a small room at one side that had a bed. Her husband and son came in as we were eating. Martina showed us her weaving – baskets, pocketbooks, hat and placemats. It was so beautiful and I am now the proud owner of a beautiful basket that she signed. It was so late that we knew we best hurry back before the sun disappeared. It was long gone by the time we reached the campground. We noticed others still computing and others eating at the campground restaurant. It was time to call it another exciting fun adventure!

Mulege' (Mule-e-hay) stop 5

February 4 and it is another moving day. We were traveling with John & Judy, Norm & Lois and W.D. & Martha. It was an interesting day of 200 miles. We stopped at where had been suggested for breakfast even though most had already eaten. W.D., Martha and John didn’t go in. We had parked next to someone selling tangerines and oranges which of course we had to buy. W.D. and Martha gave up and went on. We had more curvy and hilly sections of road. Santa Rosalina was our next stop that had been suggested. We parked by the road near 3 other Airstreams and were immediately told we needed to pay to park. The young man was quite an entrepreneur. He insisted he would take us to the mission. We began walking up the hill and realized the mission we were in was not the one built by Eiffel who built the Eiffel tower. As we began walking again he showed up in his car with a taxi behind to take us all to the mission. After haggling over the price we got in and seen saw the mission. We went in and then decided we would walk back. We wanted to see what else was there. We wandered around d and finally found a place that sold telephone cards. Mine was 50 pesos and should be about 20 minutes worth. Judy was able to call her Mother so she felt much better. We bought bakery items at the ‘French’ bakery so wandered around eating and looking. We realized we had better hurry or we were going to be late this time to park. We walked back about a mile to the campers – they were still there. John had to get gas so we slowly ambled through town with the Sea of Cortez on our left. We had curvy roads and hilly roads ahead. We were not going real slow when we rounded a corner and there was a policeman telling us to stop. It turns out a trucker had missed the corner and had burned up. This happened between the time our parkers came by and we arrived. Luckily we were all safe but the driver and another were not so fortunate. We thought we still had 15 miles to go and it was the time we were to be there. As we rounded a curve coming down a hill there was a red flag and someone in the CB saying “change of plans, turn here.” It was straight down to the beach. Dick was waiting to park us and suggested we pull straight in so we could look at the water. What a beautiful sight! The other campground had been closed; the parking crew discovered when they got there – the trials and tribulations of being a leader. Dick and Judy say there is no way they would lead a caravan! At Santispak we parked next to Norm and Lois. Soon we were bombarded by vendors. Some came selling shrimp and they looked great – 120 pesos for a kilo. We bought and ended up cooking them on the grill with Norm and Lois. We ate together and then played joker. Those shrimp were delicious.

February 5 and it is a day for ourselves. The vendors soon arrived and we bought frozen scallops and a metal and wood chicken after a bunch of bargaining. Just like many others we decided it would be an excellent day for laundry. We were told there was one of the best laundries through Baja California Sur in Mulege. We slowly got our act together and drove about 10 miles back to town. We found the roads to be as narrow as any we had seen. They had warned us not to attempt to take our motor homes or trailers into town. We never would have gotten out, that’s for sure! After parking we were quickly told by others to move since W.D. had gotten a ticket and had to pay 110 pesos in the same place. We washed – bought tokens with pesos for the washers but the dryers used US quarters. Dick and Judy waited for us and we wandered the town looking at items including beach shoes. We were looking for a phone and finally found one that worked. I was able to make one call. We found a nice little hotel with an outdoor area to eat in. Three of us chose the cheeseburger and curly fries that were straight. It was a huge burger. As usual we had filled up on chips and salsa. After wandering around some more, Winston saw a stained glass of a Mexican leaning against a cactus. After a great deal of bargaining we are now the proud owners. We headed back for our Jeep and the campground. We had a caravan cookout that consisted of way too much, particularly since we had just eaten. We had chips and salsa and cheese, barbeque beef and tortillas, potato salad, beans, dill pickles, jalapeños and cookies for dessert. While we were eating on the beach a Mariachi band came and serenaded us for 3 hours. We sat and watched as the sun set with beautiful pinks over the water and the islands out from where we are situated.

February 6 was a day to tour Mulege. The vendor who had tee shirts came back with one I had wanted. He also had beautiful tablecloths but we refrained, couldn’t get him low enough. We were picked up by 4 vans, most carrying 14 people. We soon learned we would have to open windows for a breeze. The weather is pretty good – warm during the day and cool at night. Sometimes the wind picks up pretty good. We first went to the mission and Salvador told us the history. We walked to the top of the hill and saw the oven where they had baked the stones that had been used to build the mission over 300 years ago. The view of the town was nice with palm trees used to make the thatch roofs on many of the buildings and a lighter colored palm tree that produce dates. We drove to another building that was a prison. It has been made into a museum but we couldn’t go in since the hurricane in 2006 had removed the roof and it has yet to be fixed. They are waiting on the government. Nothing moves fast in this country! We drove over very bumpy and narrow roads beside a river that runs through much of the town. This river had risen so quickly in the hurricane that people were killed. Next we drove to the lighthouse. A number climbed to the top of the hill it was on, while the rest wandered around and ended up picking up shells. Winston found where the pelicans were resting and waiting to have their babies we were told. Next we drove back into town to a hotel where we were served a fabulous lunch – much too much to eat – guacamole, refried beans, tortilla chips and salsa, enchiladas, 2 flatuas, chile relanos followed by flan for dessert. We were entertained by a musician singing and playing a piano like instrument. After that we were ready to head back for a siesta. We both seem to have acquired a cold so we needed that rest.

February 7 was a free day. Twenty-eight of us had chosen to go on an adventure to see cave paintings at La Trinidad. The only trouble was, we didn’t know what an adventure it was going to be. Two 14 passenger vans picked us up with Salvador driving one and his non-English speaking wife the other. We first had to go to the polizia to be checked in since we were going on government lands. They only permit so many to go. Salvador said about 600 people visit each year. At the politic station there was one jail cell. It made us certain we were going to be have to behave. We were told the one prisoner only receives food if someone (family or friends) bring it. He stood up high on the bars talking to us, asking for food or a cigarette. I saw his bed in one corner; it consisted of two 2inch mattresses on the floor. There was no protection except a wall had been built on the outside to give some protection from the sun? We signed our names and climbed back into the vans. Off we went through the narrow twisted roads of town to the outskirts and what must be a secondary road that led to La Trinidad. We saw four signs the entire time we drove. I have no idea how far we went but it seemed like forever. The guide book says it is 18 miles. The roads were dusty and BUMPY. There were rocks as large as softballs in and beside the road. We went into ‘river beds’ and up at angles that scraped the back bumper. We stopped and Salvador talked about the different cactus and shrubs (what they called trees) and their medicinal uses. Some were used for cancer, upset stomachs and infections. It was time to climb back in the van and travel over bumpier roads. At one point it was so bad that Salvadore went through and stopped, got out and went and drove his wife’s van through the downgrade. We reached a gate and were told that was why we had paid 100 pesos was to pay the doctor who owned an unbelievable number of acres that we had to cross. We came to another gate so I assume we were in someone else’s land. We saw no humans, one jack rabbit with big ears, a couple of birds and one chipmunk. It was pretty desolate. Suddenly we saw crops and a farm stead. The crops were alfalfa and sorghum. We parked and began the real adventure. We hiked up and down over very rocky terrain. Salvador had told it was a 20 minute walk but I know it took us all longer. Jack, our oldest member, was talked into going and he made it with help. We had to climb over rocks and then put our wading shoes on to go through a number of water holes. We were in a canyon that was unbelievably beautiful. We climbed up and there were the cave drawings. They were in white, red and black and Salvador explained them. There was a deer that was hanging that meant he had been made to jump off the cliff. Another deer had arrows pointed at his stomach indicating that the animals were pushed toward other Indians who shot them. There were Indians, a coyote, children’s hands to show the continuation of the tribe. Evidently the 3 colors were 3 different groups of Indians showing they had been there. We 'oh-ed and ah-ed' and then began our slow walk and wade back. When we arrived the two women had fixed lunch of flour tortillas, refried beans, tomatoes, onions, cheese, and jalapeños with coke, sprite or strawberry soda. It was so good. Our return trip was over the same bumpy roads but we made it. After a quick rest we had our driver’s meeting out under the palapa (frond covered shade). There was time for a quick supper and joker with Norm & Lois.

Guerrero Negro Stop 4

February 2nd
The parkers left at 6:30 since it was to be a very long day – 247 miles that was expected to take 8 hours. Top speed limit most of the time is 50, as though you could go that fast. At 7:30 we left with Norm & Lois and John & Judy. The first part of the journey we led. We had been told to be sure and have plenty of gas when we left the first town about 30 miles from our campground. None felt they needed any so we continued. Soon we saw the Cirio or Boojum trees we had been told about indicating the desert. They were described as upside down carrot tops and that is probably a good description. We went through desert areas with lots of volcanic rocks and hills and every type of cactus imaginable. Near a junction there was an onyx shop we had been told about. The elderly gentleman who could speak no English had chimes and carvings of white onyx. We had to help him out. We think he indicated that he had done the carving himself. He was living in this house in the middle of nowhere with next to nothing. The main room had the carvings and chimes hanging from the ceiling; the other much smaller room had a small bed and something to cook on. We traveled on through interesting country. When we got to Guererro Negro we went through another checkpoint where we had to pay 20 pesos to have the underneath sprayed for bugs. We were entering Baja California Sur, another Mexican state. We also had to change our watches back to Mountain time. Nearly all of us were early and got chastised and later fined by our sheriff David. We were only a couple of minutes early and had seen others going in so we thought it was okay. We decided we will not be early again! Our campsite was at Mario’s Tours, Restaurant and Campground. He does a little bit of any and everything. Since we had no electric, Winston had to drive the motor home back out and go to another site. It wasn’t real good even then. They have used HUGE scallop shells for the driveways. They are so pretty and seem to work. We had our dinner in Mario’s Restaurant. It is a circular building with gravel floor and palms for the roof.

February 3rd
It was another get up early morning. We had to be in Mario’s Restaurant ready to go on our first whale watching trip. Twenty-one of us went in the first group. After an explanation about the grey whales (that are black colored except the barnacles growing on them make them appear grey). We drove through the salt processing plant of which Mexico owns 51% and Japan’s Mitsubishi owns the other 49%. After about 20 minutes of fast drive (the only kind Mexicans know), we arrived at a small landing area that had about 6 boats. Ten got in our small boat with the Mexican boatman. He knew next to no English. As we took off a porpoise jumped right beside us. Off the wooden boat went as fast as he could go so we could into the lagoon area. This is a World Heritage area that protects the whales as well as the many birds – over 100 kinds. The lagoon is large emptying into the Pacific Ocean. We suddenly slowed down, the bow dropped and we could see blows in a number of directions. Our other boat, as well as two others from another company, was nearby. Our guide went here and there trying to get us as close as possible to different whales. We saw mother and calf a number of times and would watch them swim under us and come up the other side. A couple of times we could not help but wonder if they would come up right under us. They breached and turned their tail for us. Often there would be two swimming together side by side. What an awesome sight to see! They were as long if not longer than the boat. Suddenly the guide said lunch (it was 10am) and handed everyone a bag lunch with sandwich, orange and canned drink. Because of the diesel fumes I decided to wait on food. Turns out I wasn’t the only one bothered by the smell and the constant circling. We joined our other boat and a mother and her baby entertained us. We stayed for about two hours. Coming back was even better since I love to watch the seals. We passed a large boat loaded with salt ready to go out to an offshore island where it could be transferred onto larger boats to be shipped to other countries. This boat had one huge seal on the back. He was just as proud as he could be, holding his head majestically. Then as we went by the side on the second rung of the ladder was a baby. Not much farther on there was a large round container (buoy) and the top was filled with seals. They showed off for us so we could get good pictures. Then again we slowly headed for port and got a nice picture of pelicans and then osprey on one of the nests that had been placed to try to get them to breed here. We were back to the ramp. Our flotation devices quickly came off since many of us had worn more clothes than was probably necessary but they did feel good when we were going at some speed. Back at the campground after a rest we headed to the salt works tour. It certainly was interesting. Mario’s van took us way out to where they were scooping up salt that had been allowed to dry and was at least 18 inches deep. The salt was fed into areas by huge pumps and allowed to dry about 6 months before it was ready. They used graders to push the salt around. They had huge machines that took it up and loaded it onto 3 huge dump containers pulled by a huge tractor like machine. They filled all three sections and drove to another area where it was dumped and washed and put on conveyor belts that led a long distance to barges. The barges then carried it out to an island about 25 miles off shore where the larger boats could get in. It was strange since we were driving on salt that seemed like dirt and when you walked on it you felt like it must be ice. We all inched carefully until we realized it was not slippery. Most of us got a chunk or two to take with us. The lady guide told us to wash it in salt water until it gleamed, allow it to dry and then spray it with acrylic and we would have a souvenir. We drove back through town which is much different than most we had seen. It is a company town and has a store for the workers as well as some better looking homes than most. The salt works is open and working 24 hours with most workers having a 6 hour day. They even build all of the equipment including the graders and trucks. The operation is huge. We got back in time for our driver’s meeting.

San Quintin stop 3

January 31 and we were up early, leaving with the parkers at 6:30am. We traveled along quickly learning about topes (speed bumps). I am not sure there are any stoplights in Baja California or Baja California Sur. They use Alto (stop) signs freely and the toe-pez are unbelievable. They come in 2 sizes – small and narrow or large and wide. Often there will be about 8 or 10 small ones followed by one BIG one. We called out to each other on the CB when we saw them and also when eighteen wheelers were coming at us. The roads vary but typically have a center yellow line and white lines on the sides, but they are narrower than in the US and the real problem is the drop-off of about 8 to 12 inches on the sides. Often their may be another dirt road off to the side. At one area we saw the Mexicans flying down the dirt road beside us trying to pass and they did. The only paved road is the highway. Other dirt roads are not bad but they may be washboards. Luckily our second rest stop was at a Pemex gas station. Needless to say we filled up. Pemex is the only gas station in Mexico. Its prices are set across the country by the Mexican government. The parking crew arrived in time to set up and grab lunch. The campground was down a dirt road bout a mile. The El Pabellion RV was on the good side of the dunes with the Pacific Ocean on the other side. It was windy but we had protection. Winston and Jack worked together at one end parking the rigs and Dick and Judy did the other end. Linda flagged them in at the office and I went out to the highway and flagged them down and talked them in over the CB. We got them all in with only one problem, David turned to go into his site and when he hesitated he got stuck in the sand. With help from many he soon got out. We had another Fiesta.


February 1 and we drove to downtown San Quintin with Dick & Judy. We walked the main street going into a Mercardo (grocery store or supermarket) where the only thing we bought was toilet paper (4 rolls that are half as tall as US and half as large). We wandered through a novelty store that every type of candy, paper goods, piñatas, anything for a party. We when into a pandered - bakery (and bought some rolls and a doughnut). The Mexican bakery is not like American. Usually only un-sweet items are sold there. The sweet items are sold at another store. We checked out a Pharmacia. Soon we began picking up or guessing many of the words. Now if we could just do the same with the money. We headed back to the campground. The number of places selling things alongside the road is unbelievable. Many are little taco stores that are open air – anything to make a little money. The people seem so poor. As you drive highway 1 on each side are the stores but between on each side is a dirt road that often the Mexicans drive on. They drive crazy and fast. It was difficult to believe it was Sunday although we did notice in the plaza at the band shell a group was singing. They were dressed up. We got back and it wasn’t long before we had to gather our drinks and silver so we could go to the cookout. We had all been given our steaks to keep in our own refrigerators and the cookout committee had fixed potatoes, avocadoes and corn on the cob. Mmmm good! Afterwards we had a nice campfire followed by the driver’s meeting. Our time was coming to move again.

Estero Beach stop 2

January 29th and Scott’s birthday - At 10:30 our group, the last one, was ready to go. Our 8 rigs lined up and started off. Frank was caboose and he had an excellent CB. We got on I-5 and headed south for our big adventure. We crossed the border – all of us got green lights to keep going. The day before we had seen how backed up the getting into the USA side was. They have about 4 lanes and still can’t handle all of the traffic. Vendors go up and down with their carts selling tacos and drinks. We skirted Tijuana on the toll way around the west side alongside the Rio Grande River. It was an interesting trip – nice four lane road with 3 toll stops, about 76 pesos each time. We all kept together and had no trouble. The scenery was interesting. We got our introduction to some of the poverty we would see and also some of the beautiful homes that Americans are building along that stretch. We were headed to Ensenada and the Estero Beach Resort and RV Park. We certainly were glad to see the welcoming wave of the red flags of our parkers. It was a nice campground. We could see the water and walked along a semi-paved path when we went for our dinner. The homes in the resort were interesting. The resort has been in existence for over 50 years and some of the trailers with some homes built around them have been their since time began for the resort. Others are beautiful homes still being built. There were not many people that we saw. We had a fiesta (what is known in most caravans as a GAM – get acquainted meeting) soon after we arrived. Usually 5 rigs get together for about an hour with snacks and learn about each other. This was followed by a meal at the resort.



January 30 and breakfast is served at the resort restaurant. It was a great meal – a beautiful fruit plate followed by a plate full of food including huevos ranchero (eggs with a tortilla shell on the bottom, then eggs and salsa over the top), refried beans and tortillas. After we had finished we wandered over to the museum on the resort grounds. What a wonderful small museum. Our guide was the owner. He is over 80 and so impressive. He described the areas and pointed out some of the items. He has unbelievable collection of valuable historical items.

Afterwards we wandered through the resort. Then Norm & Lois and we decided to follow Tom & Penny, Linda and Dick and Judy as they were going to La Bufadore. It is an area about 25 miles from Estero Beach where the water goes into a crevice and there is a big blow when it moves back and forth. There was also a market area. We noticed that many of the places were closed but we enjoyed looking anyway. After wandering down the hill through all of the vendors and seeing the blow we ambled back to one of the restaurants. All of us decided it was time to eat again. We enjoyed a nice meal in an outdoor café overlooking the water. What a life – someone needs to lead it!

One thing we have to get used to is, if they want to let the person behind know they can pass, they turn their left signal on. That is fine unless they really want to turn. We still don’t know how they indicate they are turning. We had our driver’s meeting when we suddenly were reminded that we would be on parking duty. The more we thought about it, the more worried we became about our diesel. We had not been able to get off the freeway (I-8) when we were coming into San Diego. Then we were told not to stop and get diesel since we were leaders and then we discovered that we were parkers at the next stop and still would not be able to get diesel. The problem was if we get below ½ in the tank the generator is not happy, not to mention that the next campground had no electric. We had our driver’s meeting to prepare to travel the next day.

Chula Vista stop 1

January 25 in Chula Vista began with Church. It was a friendly church (Baptist) with the sermon on tithing. We, along with Dick & Judy and John & Judy, were all stuffed into John’s truck. After deciding to grab a bite, we headed for the San Diego Zoo. Parking was limited and difficult for a big truck at the zoo but we finally found a place. Walking up to the entrance at 2 pm, we were told the admission was $32 each. After a quick discussion it was decided that another time would be great. Judy and I both were freezing so we bought a $9 sweat shirt from a vendor. Next we headed for the USS Midway. That was something - a great tour with headphones so you could go at your own speed. We closed the gates down at 5. It was so interesting including the planes on the flight deck but it was freezing since the wind was blowing hard across the flight deck. We headed home.

January 26 was the first day of the caravan. We had our first meeting at 12:30. It sure took a while to get all of the information across. Bruce and Enid are the leaders. There are 25 rigs with 4 of them being singles – 2 women and 2 men. I think 17 states and 2 provinces are represented. We found we didn’t know many of the people. The meeting was long since there were so many things to discuss and we had 8 rigs that had never been on a caravan. Our first event was a social hour followed by a wonderful dinner at a close-by restaurant that a number of us walked to. The original planned restaurant was closed on Monday so the leaders had to make a quick change. Our campground is very nice – all paved spots with lots of green stuff around, even though the grass still has signs telling us not to let the dogs go there.

January 27 was our day for a tour of San Diego’s Little Italy. We soon learned how easy it is to get around in the area. We carpooled about a mile to a trolley stop where we learned how to purchase our tickets - $1.25 for seniors. We rode to Little Italy where we got off and walked up the hill to a restaurant where we took advantage of the wonderful looking pastries before our 2 Italian guides appeared. They, the guides and the pastries, were excellent. Each of us had our own head phone so we could hear what the guide said. We did a walking tour and learned the history of the Italian community. We learned they came as fishers and made their own community. We went into a local grocery that we would love to have visited longer. The Catholic Church was one stop where we learned more history - how the priest was able to keep the church going after he had spent more than he should have building the outside with not enough left to complete the inside. He read the names of all who given so all of the others felt they had to jump on the bandwagon as well. Soon there was plenty of money. We learned about the house where prohibition was a blessing – they had bootleg liquor. We ended the tour at a very nice restaurant that served us a wonderful meal Italian style – slow and leisurely. Then it was back on the trolley to the campground. Winston stopped at a camera shop before we got on board and was told of a wonderful shop that might be able to fix his camera that evidently had been dropped at some time. When we got back to the campground we jumped in the jeep and off we went through all of the freeways about 20 miles. The shop did fix the camera.


January 28th What a day this was to be! We left for the trolley again but headed south and to the border. We needed to get our Visas stamped so we would not have to stop on the way with our rigs. We also were exchanging dollars for pesos. We got our Visas fine but then discovered that they would not accept Traveler’s Checks. The exchange rate at the border office was 13.0. The couple we were with, Betty & Rolf, were from Canada and they would not exchange their Canadian money either. We decided to ride the trolley back and go to Bank of America and get the money turned into US funds and then determine where we could get it exchanged. Winston got the travelers checks cashed and was able to get the Canadian money exchanged The cashier told us we would have to drive back down I-5 to a certain exit where a number of exchange places were. Instead we decided to get back on the trolley and go back to Tijuana again. As we going a fellow riding with Rolf and Betty said there was a place right where you get off the trolley. Sure enough and their rate was 13.2, so we did better. We got right back on the trolley. We went to Costco for lunch and to get a carrot cake for the group since Betty and I are in charge of birthdays and anniversaries. While at Costco, Rolf teasingly asked where he could get his money changed to pesos and was told right over there – that rate was 13.5. For each $1 you get 132 pesos. It makes you feel like you are rich with all of those pesos! Later we had our first driver’s meeting to discuss the route and answer any questions. Bruce and Enid had decided, because of the fears and problems that we had heard about, that we would convoy. They were to lead the first 9; Tom led the next 8 and we were to lead the last 8. We were given directions and told not to stop unless there was an emergency. The trip was only 85 miles.